What is the 5S-GTE?

ARP 203-4204 Head Studs
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Cometic Head Gasket
Cometic Head Gasket - C4314-065
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Cometic Head Gasket
Cometic Head Gasket - C4314-065
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Description: A 3S-GTE head on 5S-FE block. Preferably Gen 2, Gen 3, or Gen 4 3S-GTE head on a late 90s 5S-FE block.

Why? This turns the 3SGTE into a stroker engine. The 5S-FE has an over square crank.

Downsides: You'll need to upgrade to an Engine Management like Haltech, you'll need to either have the 5s crank machined to fit the 3S rods, or get custom 5SGTE rods.

    Parts/work overview
  • 5S-FE Block (98+ preferred)
  • 5S Crankshaft (machined for 3S rods)
  • 3S-GTE Cylinder Head (Gen 2/3/4/5)
  • Custom Forged Pistons
  • Modified 3S-GTE Oil Pan
  • Coolant Passage Dremeling
  • Block Deck Machining
  • Crank Journal Turning
  • 3S or Aftermarket Rods
  • MLS Head Gasket
  • ARP Head/Main Studs
  • High-Volume Oil Pump (late 5S-FE)
  • ST205 Timing Belt
  • 3S-GTE Crank Gear, Tensioner
    cam gears, water pump
  • Standalone ECU (Link/Haltech)
  • 3S-GTE Crank Pulley
  • Alternator Bracket (ST205 or SW20)
  • 3S Clutch & 5S Flywheel (modified)

Mating Head to Block

Using the head gasket as a template. Lay the 3S-GTE head gasket on the block and mark mismatches, remove gasket and carefully dremel/enlarge coolant passages on the block deck for full alignment and flow. Do not over-enlarge or hit oil passages. Clean thoroughly and pressure-test the cooling system afterward.

Test-fit the head with the gasket before final assembly. Some 98+ blocks need zero dremeling with the ATS gasket.

Differences by 3S-GTE head gen (and block year):

  • Gen 2 (e.g., ~91–93 ST185/MR2, larger rectangular intake ports with TVIS): More common mismatches; often 2–4 passages need work.
  • Gen 3/4 (e.g., 93–99 ST205 Celica, smaller oval ports, no TVIS): Similar but water jackets vary slightly vs. Gen 2. Aftermarket Japanese gaskets are usually tuned for later (ST205) heads. On 92–93 5S blocks: often minimal or none with proper gasket. On 94+/98+ 5S blocks: more likely 2–4 passages need cleanup. Gen 3/4 heads are preferred overall for the hybrid due to better velocity and flow on the extra cubes.

Rod Length Needed, Pistons, Machining, etc

Use stock 3S-GTE rod length: 138 mm (5.433") center-to-center. The 5S crank journals must typically be machined (turned down on the rod journals for the smaller 3S big-end bore diameter) to accept them—no stroke loss.

Can 3S rods be used? Yes — stock or aftermarket 3S-GTE rods are the most common, cheapest, and strongest option for this exact hybrid build. They are the same center-to-center length as needed and significantly beefier than stock 5S rods (larger big end, stronger bolts). Most builders go this route.

Companies that make (or have made) custom or compatible rods for this setup: Eagle, Manley, Carrillo, Maxpeedingrods, BoostLine, Brian Crower, Pauter, KingTec Racing, etc

Considerations & modifications needed:

  • Stock 3S rods route (recommended for most): Machine the 5S crank rod journals to match the 3S big-end size. Upgrade to ARP 2000 rod bolts for anything over ~400 hp. Pair with custom forged pistons only (JE, Wiseco, CP — specify 5S bore, 91 mm stroke, 138 mm rod length, desired CR ~8.5–9:1, valve reliefs, 22 mm pin). No other rod mods usually required.
  • Custom rods route (if avoiding crank machining): Order rods with big-end bore sized for the stock 5S crank journals, 138 mm length, and correct piston pin height. More expensive but leaves the crank untouched. Choose 4340 H-beam or I-beam
  • Rod ratio ends up ~1.51:1 (acceptable for torque-focused turbo builds up to 8,000+ rpm; not ideal for extreme high-RPM). Always balance the entire rotating assembly. Use ARP hardware. Custom pistons are mandatory regardless — stock 3S or 5S pistons will not work due to stroke/bore/compression differences.

Alternator Bracket & P/S Pump

The 5S block (Camry-style) has a front/side alternator mount position similar to Celica (ST205). The pure 3S-GTE head doesn't change this—the bracket bolts to the block.

  • MR2 SW20 3S-GTE: Alternator mounts low/rear on the block. Late SW20 often has electric power steering (EPS) (no hydraulic pump needed). Bracket PNs (examples): 12501-74050 (93–95 3SGTE w/PS), 12501-74040 (non-PS or variants), 12501-74020 (earlier). If your build is for an MR2 chassis, you may need the SW20-style rear bracket + EPS components (no hydraulic PS pump/bracket).
  • ST205 Celica 3S-GTE: Alternator mounts higher/front/top. Uses Celica-specific bracket (ST202/ST205 parts; exact PN often 12501-74xxx series or 12511-88570 for related hanger—users swap the full Celica alternator + bracket assembly). Celica uses hydraulic power steering, so you'll need the PS pump, lines, and bracket if not running EPS.

What parts are needed?

  • If using ST205 head/engine style on 5S block (best match for Celica/Camry chassis): Celica alternator + front bracket (ST205 PN), hydraulic PS pump if required. Swap crank pulley, serpentine belts, and A/C compressor bracket as needed.
  • If using SW20 head/engine style: MR2 rear bracket (e.g., 12501-74050), and EPS motor/electronics (no hydraulic pump). Many builders swap the entire alternator assembly + bracket from the donor 3S-GTE type for perfect fit.
  • In either case: Use 3S-GTE serpentine belts. The 5S block may need minor bracket bolt-hole elongation or spacers. Test-fit with your chassis (MR2 vs. Celica/All-Trac).

Parts Needed

Head Gasket Needed

Required: A 3S-GTE or 5S-GTE-specific MLS (multi-layer steel) gasket. Match it exactly to your head gen and block year.

Best: ATS Racing 5SGTE-specific MLS head gasket (Cometic-made; available in various thicknesses). It fits 98+ 5S blocks perfectly with minimal/no extra matching and is the consensus top choice for reliability and sealing under boost. Thickness: Typically 1.2–1.4 mm (choose based on desired compression ratio, usually 8.5–9.0:1 for turbo).

Alternatives: Cometic MLS custom (specify the 5S/3S combo), or OEM/TTE 3S-GTE gasket (1.2 or 1.4 mm). These often require more dremeling to match passages and are less ideal than the ATS version.

ARP Studs Part Numbers

Head studs: ARP 203-4204 (standard) or 203-4207 (premium/L19 variant for extreme boost). These are the 3S-GTE kits and bolt straight into the 3S head on 5S block.

Main studs: ARP 203-5404 (fits 3S-GTE/5S-FE blocks).

Torque to ARP specs with moly lube; these are mandatory for any boosted build.

Oil Pump Best to Use

Late-model (98–01+) 5S-FE Camry/Solara high-volume gerotor pump (e.g., around part 15100-74030 or equivalent). It flows ~13% more oil per rotation than 3S-GTE pumps and is the consensus best for the hybrid (prevents starvation at high RPM/boost). Use the smaller pulley version with the ST205 belt. 3S-GTE pump works as a fallback but is lower volume.

Timing Belt Tooth Count

Use the ST205 (Celica GT-Four Gen 3/4) 3S-GTE timing belt (typically 153 teeth; common OEM equivalent ~13568-79xxx series). The 5S crank gear (25 teeth) must be swapped for the 3S-GTE/3S-GE gear (part 13521-88360, 23 teeth) for proper belt length, oil pump drive, and cam timing. Pair with 3S tensioner, idlers, and cam gears. The oil pump pulley change is solely for belt length compatibility.

Water Pump: What Needs to Be Done?

Use a 3S-GTE water pump (or compatible 5S-FE from 91–93 MR2/Celica) that matches your timing belt/covers. With the ST205 belt + late 5S oil pump combo, some builders use the ST205 pump and modify bypass lines (or weld a water outlet on the block front like ST205). The 5S and 3S pumps are similar but check housing fit—minor port matching or gasket mods may be needed. Replace the thermostat housing/gasket and use 3S thermostat if running MR2/Celica cooling. Top Line or OEM high-flow aftermarket recommended for boosted duty.

Everything Else Needed / What to Do

Crank pulley/harmonic damper: 3S-GTE unit (5S won't match timing).

Flywheel & clutch: Fidanza lightweight (elongated holes for 5S crank) + 3S-GTE clutch, or modified 3S flywheel (elongate bolt holes) + 3S clutch. 5S flywheel works with 3S clutch but check spline. Use OEM 5S flywheel bolts or ARP equivalents.

Oil pan: Modify 3S-GTE pan (cut ~1 cm on flywheel side, raise lip, seal with FIPG) to clear rods/studs. (pictured)

Grinding: Minor clearance grinding on back of 5S block for GT-Four (AWD) trans/transfer case.

Engine Management and sensors

Ignition coils builders use: The most common are Toyota 1ZZ-FE coils (Corolla/Matrix etc.) with CNC adapter brackets — full kits from Racer X Fabrication / MR2 Chop Shop or Hurley Toyota on eBay. Yaris 1NZ-FE coils (Denso 90919-02240) also fit perfectly on the 3S-GTE head (compact, shorter stem for better clearance). Premium: PRP kits with Hitachi R35 GTR or IGN-35A coils (direct drop-in, 1000+ hp rated).

Blanking cap to replace distributor cap: Yes — required for full distributor delete. Purchase options: Racer X Fabrication[](https://primemr2.com/products/distributor-cover), Battle Garage RS SQ Block Off Cap[](https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/sq-20v-16v-4age-3sgte-distributor-block-off-cap), or MR2 Heaven billet aluminum[](https://mr2heaven.com/products/3sgte-distributor-cap-cover). For 3D-printed STL files: Search yeggi.com or cults3d.com for “Gen2 3S-GTE Distributor Delete Cover for Toyota MR2” — multiple STL files available specifically for the 3SGTE.

Distributor sensor pinout (if retaining for sync before full delete): 4-wire reluctor setup — NE (Black, crank 24x signal), G1 (Green, cam sync #1), G2 (White, cam sync #2 360° offset), G- (Red/common ground). Connect NE to Trigger 1, G1/G2 to Cam/Home, G- to sensor ground.

Position for 0° timing: Rotate engine to #1 TDC compression. Align G1 tooth (or crank trigger) exactly at the pickup for 0° base reference. ECU software adds advance; apply +360° offset if using G2 instead.

Yaris ignition coils on 3S-GTE head: Yes — they fit (compact design, same adapters as 1ZZ work). Pinout (4-pin): Pin 1 = Ground, Pin 2 = Trigger (IGT), Pin 3 = Ignition feedback (IGF), Pin 4 = +12V Power.

Dwell times & other ECU config for Yaris 1NZ-FE coils (Denso 90919-02240): These are smart coils with internal igniter. Voltage-compensated dwell table (scoped data from 1ZZ/1NZ users):

  • 8V 10V 12V 13V 14V
    6.3 ms 4.4 ms 3.2 ms 2.7 ms 2.4 ms

ECU settings: Direct Spark (COP) mode, falling edge, constant charge dwell, individual coil outputs (firing order 1-3-4-2), use IGF feedback if supported. Start conservative and dyno-tune. Crank trigger: 24-2 wheel + cam sync (full distributor delete with Racer X kit recommended).

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