These voltages are not accurate with anything other than a 1k pullup
| Vehicle | 0C | 20C | 40C | 50C | 60C | 70C | 80C | 90C | 100C | 110C |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Most Japanese | 4.26v | 3.57v | 2.93v | 2.86v | 2.55v | 2.23v | 1.92v | 1.67v | 1.40v | 1.18v |
| Most Aftermarket | 4.26v | 3.57v | 2.93v | 2.86v | 2.55v | 2.23v | 1.92v | 1.67v | 1.40v | 1.18v |
| Most German | 4.28v | 3.60v | 2.78v | 2.43v | 2.12v | 1.84v | 1.60v | 1.20v | 0.75v | 0.56v |
| Most Ford/Chevy/Dodge | 4.26v | 3.57v | 2.78v | 2.45v | 2.12v | 1.59v | 1.36v | 0.97v | 0.75v | 0.60v |
The above chart shows most common coolant temperature sensor data as well as other aftermarket brand sensors (GM Delphi, AC Delco, AEM, NGK, MOTEC NTC, etc.).
This information has been pulled from multiple manufacturer diagnostic manuals and converted from the OEM 2.2k pullup for my 1k pullup, but should still be double-checked for accuracy.
It's important to use the appropriate pullup with the voltages on the chart when inputting in your engine management (unless you are wiring in your own, in which case, pick either 1k or 2.2k).
1k ohm pullup resistors provide a faster response to the ECU, but the difference in speed is negligible for most applications.
The adjacent chart shows most common coolant temperature sensor data as well as other aftermarket brand sensors (GM Delphi, AC Delco, AEM, NGK, MOTEC NTC, etc.).
This information has been pulled from multiple manufacturer diagnostic manuals and converted from the OEM 2.2k pullup for my 1k pullup, but should still be double-checked for accuracy.
It's important to use the appropriate pullup with the voltages on the chart when inputting in your engine management (unless you are wiring in your own, in which case, pick either 1k or 2.2k).
1k ohm pullup resistors provide a faster response to the ECU, but the difference in speed is negligible for most applications.
These voltages are not accurate with anything other than a 1k pullup
| Vehicle | -10C | 0C | 10C | 20C | 30C | 40C | 50C | 60C |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Most Japanese | 4.42v | 4.26v | 3.98v | 3.57v | 3.26v | 2.93v | 2.86v | 2.55v |
| Most Aftermarket | 4.42v | 4.26v | 3.98v | 3.57v | 3.26v | 2.93v | 2.86v | 2.55v |
| Most German | 4.44v | 4.28v | 3.99v | 3.60v | 3.16v | 2.78v | 2.43v | 2.12v |
| Most Ford/Chevy/Dodge | 4.66v | 4.26v | 3.95v | 3.57v | 3.43v | 2.78v | 2.45v | 2.12v |
These have one wire or two wires.
Since this is a temperature switch, when the desired operating temperature is reached, the switch inside opens or closes.
This can trigger:
The coolant temp switch can be wired into a fan relay to trigger it on when the coolant reaches a certain temp if you run out of outputs on your engine management and you want to use the fan output to control something else.
The signal wire senses the voltage/resistance variations across the other two wires, and depending on whether the sensor was designed to output, the signal wire outputs the voltage/resistance that is converted to pressure, temperature, or position in the ECU.
This specific sensor in the adjacent picture is a Bosch PST-F_1 4 wire combination pressure/temperature sensor made for fuel pressure/temperature. It functions the same as a normal 3 wire temperature sensor, the extra wire is for a pressure signal.
Be careful purchasing any sensor, and make sure the threads match what your vehicle accepts. The PST-F1 in the adjacent picture has M10x1 threads, others have 1/8 NPT thread and some are even 3/8 NPT.
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