| Vehicle | OEM MAP | Approx. Max Bar |
|---|---|---|
| Audi S4 02-23 | 3 Bar | ~1.6 Bar |
| BMW 335i 07-15 | 3 Bar | ~1.4 Bar |
| Camaro Supercharged 16-23 | 3 Bar | ~1.6 Bar |
| Challenger Supercharged 15-23 | 3 Bar | ~1.8 Bar |
| Evo (all) | 3 Bar | ~1.8 Bar |
| MKIV Supra | 3 Bar | ~1.6 Bar |
| WRX 02-21 | 3 Bar | ~1.5 Bar |
About: This section covers Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors. Not all vehicles are equipped with these — only a few turbocharged/supercharged models. You can add these sensors to an aftermarket ECU known as "Engine Management".
Wiring:
Troubleshooting:
About: Most vehicles from the factory will have oil pressure switches that will trigger a low oil pressure warning on your dash below approx 7-10 PSI (~0.5-0.7 Bar). This section covers oil pressure sensors on vehicles as they were from the factory (analog voltage output types, common in many modern OEM setups).
Wiring: The same wiring mentioned in the MAP section above applies to this sensor:
Troubleshooting: The same troubleshooting steps mentioned in the MAP section above can be followed:
| Vehicle | Voltage Range | Pressure Range |
|---|---|---|
| Audi S4 09-16 | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-145 PSI |
| BMW 335i 07-15 | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-145 PSI |
| Camaro 16-23 | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-145 PSI |
| Challenger 08-23 | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-145 PSI |
| VW Golf 15-21 | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-145 PSI |
| Vehicle | Voltage Range | Pressure Range |
|---|---|---|
| Infinity G35 (03-08) | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-130 PSI |
| Lexus GS300 | 0.5v-4.5v | unknown PSI |
| Lexus IS300 | 0.5v-4.5v | unknown PSI |
| Nissan 350Z(03-08) | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-130 PSI |
| Nissan 370Z(09-20) | 0.5v-4.5v | 0-130 PSI |
About: Most vehicles from the factory will have P/S pressure switches that help to raise idle slightly when the wheels are turned. This section covers power steering pressure sensors on vehicles as they were from the factory.
Older vehicles used a vacuum switch that would raise the idle when the wheel was turned by opening a port that connected a vacuum line in and out of the power steering switch.
Newer vehicles detect power steering pressure via a sensor or switch and send that data to the ECU for the idle to be raised (common in modern drive-by-wire setups).
Wiring: The same wiring mentioned in the MAP section above applies to this sensor:
Troubleshooting: The same troubleshooting steps mentioned in the MAP section above can be followed:
Requirements: The main requirement for this is a standalone pressure gauge OR a full replacement programmable engine computer known as "engine management".
Wiring: There are 5 wires (typically +5V, sensor ground, signal, and sometimes power/ground variations — but core three are 5V, sensor ground, and signal).
All of the data needed for wiring and configuration can be found in the datasheet that will come with your sensor.
It's important that your sensor ground is connected to the same device receiving the signal from the sensor:
Wire gauges: This can be 18 or 20 AWG depending on the amp draw — consult your datasheet or mimic the OEM wire gauge for pressure sensors.
Shielding is not necessary for most fluid pressure sensors (unlike crank/cam or wheel speed sensors).
Which sensor do I buy? The sensor in the adjacent picture is a Haltech HT-010904 (150 PSI) fluid pressure sensor, but research your expected oil pressure, fuel pressure, (or even power steering or transmission line pressure) and buy a sensor that covers your range (e.g., 0–100 PSI for oil, 0–150 PSI for fuel, etc.).
Configuration: The configuration is mentioned below regarding all of these pressure sensors (same as MAP/oil pressure: analog voltage scaling in ECU or gauge software).
Overview: The adjacent picture shows a fuel pressure sensor configuration (software is Haltech NSP), but the same configuration steps can be followed for MAP, P/S, Coolant Pressure, Oil Pressure, Transmission Line Pressure, etc.
Volts: Input data into the white boxes beside the "Volts" text. Generally the values in here will be 0.5 to 4.5, but consult your datasheet that came with your sensor for the exact voltage-to-pressure table.
PSI: I have entered my data in PSI. If you're using Haltech, you can change the measured units under 'preferences > units' at the top banner.
If your datasheet shows PSI, Bar, kPa, etc., then switch your unit preferences to reflect the units on your datasheet. Once you've done this, input the data. After this you can switch back to other units and the Haltech software will automatically convert the values.
Pull-up resistor: A pullup resistor should not be needed to be wired in (or enabled in the software), but consult your datasheet to verify — most modern analog pressure sensors output a clean voltage signal without requiring pullup.
Important Info on gauges: The AEM X-Series gauge in the adjacent picture should not be relied on if you're expecting to save your engine from catastrophic damage.
The gauge does have a data output, but the processing of the information before it relays it to your engine management can potentially be too slow if the fuel pressure drops, resulting in a lean condition before your ECU takes action.
Other gauges are similar in terms of processing data and relaying it to an ECU. If you can, wire it directly to your aftermarket ECU for faster response and safety protection.
Coolant Pressure Sensor: This is a little-known sensor that can be added to your engine to notify you if your head gasket is leaking under high boost. I've found it to be slightly scary under normal driving, since the coolant pressure has a tendency to drop when the thermostat opens. In my Haltech diagnostics for this sensor I have a CEL set to trigger if it rises over my normal PSI.
Fuel Pressure Sensor: This can be used as a safety measure in the event that you're accelerating under full boost and a fuel pump fails. The ECU senses a drop in pressure and can limit throttle immediately to avoid leaning out.
Oil Pressure Sensor: For the same reasons mentioned above, this sensor can add a little more safety to your engine by detecting if your oil pressure ever drops.
Other pressure sensor uses:
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